Costume & Stuff from the English Civil War
and a long head Shag-Poll. Picture from the front of the booklet published by John Taylor in London 1642. The Roundhead has the short hair of a typical London apprerntice and is wearing a short tabbed doublet, stiff falling band and tightly cut breeches. He seems to be leading the “Shag-Poll” by the neck from York towards the London gallows. He has a rather splendid plumed felt hat, square cut coat, breeches and long boots.
Pamphlet from 1641 containing amongst other news, the description of a riot in Edinburgh (I know how to spell it, even if the printer didn’t) caused by a rabble of Frenchmen. This picture could be a one of the Frenchmen, but I’m inclined to believe it’s a Scot from his bonnet. He has a short tabbed doublet and a belt with his dirk tucked in it. He’s also holding a pair of gloves much like John Thurloe’s in the pervious post.
Cromwell’s spymaster painted in the school of William Dobson, possibly shortly after the war. Smart black doublet and cloak with an understated band and tassels. His cuffs are quite special though and he carries a pair of thin leather gloves.
of the Hogfaced Gentlewoman called Mistress Tannakin Skinker. Printed in London in 1640. Miss Skinker came from the Low Countries and her mother had been bewitched before she was born. A sad tale, but the gentleman wears a rather smart doublet and breeches with ribbons decorating the leg openings all topped by a voluminous cloak. The gentlewoman herself in a gown over a petticote and a chaperone hood. The thing about this image is comparing it with the second picture which is obviously a reuse of the plate, with the head and shoulders rather crudely replaced.
The Welshman’s Compliments or the true manner how Skinkin Wooed his sweetheart Maudlin after his return from Kenton Battaile. This one printed in 1642. March 4th to be precise. A 17th century spot the difference. Even his name is similar!
From The Discovery of Witches, published by Matthew Hopkins in 1647 “For the Benefit of the Whole KINGDOM” Hopkins made his money and reputation out of terrorising the old and vulnerable. He even got local people to do the hard work for him so he didn’t have to stay up all night watching for familiars. Nice man.
Hopkins is wearing a short tabbed doublet which would have been pretty low fashion by 1647. He did live in a backwater of the country though. I know, I live there today! He found several “witches” in my village. The stiff standing collar is also very old hat, though I believe this woodcut must have been made for the publication.
This old woman seems to be sporting one of those odd pointy coifs on her head with a smallish neckerchief, bodice and petticote.
..of us, the Parliaments poore Souldiers in the Army of Ireland, whereof many are starved already, and many dead for want of Chirurgions.
Graphic representation of the state of the army that Cromwell took to Ireland in 1647. No hat, no shirt, coat in tatters, held together with string and not much left of his breeches either. He has lost his shoes and discarded his snapsack on the ground behind him. A sorry state indeed.
Anti catholic single sheet pahphlet printed in London in 1643. A many headed monster is revealed by disembodied hands from the clouds hiding beneath a large cloak, showing some interesting details in the costume.
On the left hand side the monster (ignoring the fact that he has extra arms) is dressed in an collar ruff, doublet buttoned down the front with one empty hanging sleeve, thin waist belt, waist high breeches that are tied off below the knee, cloth hose and heeled latchet shoes. On the right a lace edged falling band, square cut coat (or doublet) that is tied with laces (this is unusual in an illustration), shorter breeches, as they probably (tenuous I know) don’t need to reach high enough to hook onto the coat and boots with boothose.
My last post on the Wolfe reminded me that I’d seen another picture that showed an unbuttoned fly. Bit later than 1640, painted post restoration by Isaac Fuller and showing the flight from Worcester of Charles II in 1650. Perhaps this is a comment on the construction of common clothing, or an attempt to show what was a current fashion statement. The English Antick also has an unbuttoned fly, one of the list of his ridiculous antics being “His codpiece unbuttoned and tied at the top with a bunch of riband”
or The cruell Impieties of Bloud-thirsty Royalists and blasphemous Anti-Parliamentarians under the Command of that inhumane Prince Rupert, Digby and the rest. I was reminded recently of this picture when I read a new blog on our period, http://eagleclawedwolfe.wordpress.com/. Looks like it may be worth watching. Published in 1647, the Wolfe bears comparison with the Seventeenth Century Chav I commented on recently. Typical late 1640s high fashion, skimpy doublet that shows his shirt ruffles in the gap between the doublet and the straight breeches. He’s also grown the fur on his head long enough in one place to make a lovelock. What a dandy!
Here’s a close up of his midriff, showing details of his shirt and cuff ruffles, the turnbacks on his doublet sleeves and, to his great shame the undone breeches flys.
Some more vendors from Cries of London 1655. I love the simple costume details in these images.
The 1640s Picturebook 